What Was Happening
A customer in Wimbledon SW19 had purchased a Creality Ender 5 Plus — a large-format 3D printer with a 350 mm × 350 mm × 400 mm build volume. They had assembled it following Creality’s instructions and the printer powered on correctly, but the customer wasn’t confident the machine was set up properly. The frame had a slight wobble, the bed didn’t seem level despite adjustment, and the customer could see that the X-axis gantry wasn’t sitting perfectly horizontal.
Rather than risk damaging the printer or wasting filament on failed prints, the customer contacted us for a professional setup. They wanted the frame checked, the bed properly levelled, and a successful test print completed before they started using the machine themselves. This was their first 3D printer, and they wanted to start from a solid foundation.
Our Diagnosis
We started with a full mechanical inspection of the assembled frame. Using a machinist’s square, we checked the corners of the frame for perpendicularity. The front-left vertical extrusion was approximately 1.5 mm out of square relative to the base — enough to affect print quality, particularly on tall models where the error compounds with height. This explained the wobble the customer had noticed.
Next, we checked the dual Z-axis system. The Ender 5 Plus uses two lead screws — one on each side of the X gantry — to raise and lower the print head. Both sides must be at exactly the same height for the gantry to sit level. We measured the gantry height at each end and found a 2 mm difference — the right side was higher than the left. This tilt meant the nozzle-to-bed distance varied from one side of the bed to the other, making consistent first layers impossible regardless of how many times the bed was manually levelled.
We then inspected the Z-axis couplers — the flexible joints that connect the stepper motors to the lead screws. The left-side coupler had a hairline crack running through one of its aluminium jaws. This crack allowed the coupler to flex under load, which meant the left Z motor wasn’t driving its lead screw reliably. The crack was likely a manufacturing defect — the coupler appeared to have been over-tightened at the factory.
Belt tension on the X and Y axes was adequate but not optimal — both were slightly loose. The BLTouch auto-levelling probe was physically mounted correctly but had not been calibrated. The lead screws were dry with no lubrication. The firmware was the factory version, which was several releases behind the current stable build.
How We Fixed It
We started by loosening all frame bolts and re-squaring the frame using a machinist’s square at every corner joint. Each bolt was retightened in sequence — opposing corners first, then adjacent — to ensure the frame pulled into square evenly. After tightening, we rechecked every corner. The frame was now rigid with no perceptible wobble.
The cracked Z coupler was replaced with a new aluminium coupler from our spares. We checked the replacement for cracks before fitting and tightened it to the correct torque — firm enough to grip without over-compressing the flexible section. The right-side coupler was in good condition and only needed a minor tightening adjustment.
With both couplers secure, we synchronised the dual Z motors. We moved the gantry to the top of its travel, disabled the stepper motors, and manually adjusted both sides until the gantry sat perfectly level — measured with a spirit level across the X extrusion. Both lead screws were lubricated with a thin layer of PTFE-based grease to ensure smooth, consistent movement.
We then tightened the X and Y belts to the correct tension — firm enough to produce a low twang when plucked, with no visible slack. Both belts were in good condition with no fraying or wear.
Manual bed tramming was performed next. The Ender 5 Plus has four corner adjustment wheels under the heated bed. We used the paper-gap method at each corner, making two full passes to account for the interdependency between corners. Once the bed was mechanically level, we ran the BLTouch auto-levelling routine to create a mesh compensation map that accounts for any remaining micro-variations in the bed surface.
We updated the firmware to the latest stable release from Creality, which included improvements to the BLTouch probing algorithm, thermal protection, and motion planning. The Z offset was calibrated using a live first-layer test print, adjusted in 0.02 mm increments until the first layer showed the correct squish.
Finally, we printed a full Benchy — the standard 3D printing benchmark model — in PLA at 0.2 mm layer height. The Benchy tests overhangs, bridging, small details, dimensional accuracy, and surface finish all in one print. The result was clean and accurate, with smooth walls, sharp corners, and no visible defects.
The Result
The Ender 5 Plus was producing consistent, high-quality prints from its very first real use. The Benchy test print showed smooth surfaces, accurate dimensions, clean overhangs up to 45°, and no stringing or layer shifting. The frame was rigid and stable, the dual Z system moved smoothly and in sync, and the BLTouch compensation map was active and accurate. The customer printed several of their own models the same evening — all successfully. The full setup and calibration took approximately four hours onsite, including the Benchy test print.
Why This Happens
Large-format 3D printers like the Ender 5 Plus are more sensitive to assembly accuracy than smaller machines. Every millimetre of frame misalignment is amplified across the larger build volume. A frame that is 1 mm out of square on a 220 mm printer produces a barely noticeable dimensional error. The same 1 mm on a 350 mm printer produces a visible lean on tall models and inconsistent first layers that software compensation can’t fully correct.
The dual Z-axis design adds another layer of complexity. Single-Z printers have one motor driving one lead screw, and the gantry is constrained to stay level by the frame. Dual-Z printers have two independent motors that must stay perfectly synchronised. If one side falls behind — due to a cracked coupler, binding lead screw, or motor driver fault — the gantry tilts and print quality degrades. This is particularly problematic because the tilt may not be visible to the naked eye but is enough to cause first-layer height variations across the bed.
Kit printers also carry a higher risk of manufacturing defects in small components like couplers, brackets, and fasteners. These parts are produced in high volume at low cost, and quality control catches most defects — but not all. A cracked coupler like the one we found in this build would have caused intermittent Z-axis problems that would have been extremely difficult for a first-time user to diagnose.
Local Help in Wimbledon SW19
We provide professional 3D printer setup and calibration in Wimbledon SW19, including full assembly for kit printers, frame alignment, bed levelling, firmware updates, and test printing. A professional setup on a new printer saves weeks of frustration and ensures the machine is producing accurate results from its first print. We’re a short distance from Wimbledon via our Putney base.
We can also provide follow-up calibration after the first month if you change nozzle size, filament type, or firmware profile.
Prevention Tips
- Use a machinist’s square during assembly, not just visual alignment. Frame squareness is the foundation of print quality on any 3D printer. A £10 machinist’s square and five minutes of checking during assembly prevents dimensional errors that are difficult to diagnose later.
- Synchronise dual Z motors every time you move the gantry manually. If you ever move the gantry by hand with the printer powered off, the two sides may end up at different heights. Re-level the gantry before printing.
- Inspect all small components — couplers, brackets, pulleys — before assembly. Check for cracks, deformation, and correct thread engagement. It’s easier to spot a defective part before it’s installed than after the printer is fully assembled.
- Lubricate lead screws with PTFE-based grease every 200 print hours. Dry lead screws increase friction, which can cause Z-axis binding, layer banding, and uneven Z movement. A thin layer of grease every few months keeps movement smooth.
- Update firmware before your first print. Factory firmware is often several versions behind by the time the printer reaches you. Updated firmware includes bug fixes, improved thermal management, and better auto-levelling routines.